For the third installment of travel inconveniences in China, let’s talk coughing. We have encountered a lot of what I call “free coughing” in China; people just coughing, willy nilly, into the air, without covering their mouths. This can be anyone, at any age, but the primary offenders are older people. While we have seen people who do cover their cough, they are in the minority by far, and usually younger. Same with sneezing, but luckily, there’s less of that.
There’s also a lot of very loud, seemingly exaggerated, throat clearing. The coughing and throat clearing can happen anywhere; over the breakfast buffet, right in front of you as soon as the elevator door closes, as you move to pass someone on the sidewalk, or in a car with the windows rolled up.
We have seen plenty of people with masks during our time in China. Often our DiDi drivers will wear masks. There’s an awareness of wearing masks to prevent germ spreading, but somehow not one about free coughing?
We met a couple in Nanning, Craig and Belle, who live in Canada. Belle is Chinese. She said they sometimes ride the buses but only if it’s not crowded because of all the coughing, sneezing, and spitting. “It’s just a different culture”, she said.
There’s also a lot of smoking, indoors and out. Hotels and restaurants still allow smoking, and people do so freely. It is similar to how it was in the US decades ago, before the big push to eliminate public smoking. I remember as a little kid seeing people smoking in the grocery store, including the checkout clerks!
Unless a no smoking sign is specifically posted, people be smoking, and even if there is a sign posted, some still smoke, like on the train. Phil says men will smoke in the bathrooms, at the urinals. We were in a bakery and a dude just walked in smoking a cigarette and continued to do so as he perused his options and paid.
We were at the zoo and there was a guy smoking near the leopard enclosure, right next to a clearly marked no smoking sign. A Chinese man walked by with his wife and said something to her in Chinese and then in English said, “no smoking”. He was clearly annoyed by the smoker too.
There is oddly, no vaping in China (there was SO much vaping in Korea). It isn’t completely outlawed, but it is strictly regulated. There is a ban on all flavored vapes except tobacco flavored. It is also banned in public spaces and online sales are prohibited. Ironically, China is the biggest manufacturer of e-cigarettes in the world and does manufacture flavored products for export.
China Tobacco is a state-run monopoly that contributes $206 billion (USD) in tax money yearly. It is also a major employer. There’s not a lot of incentive to allow vaping or two sponsor anti-smoking campaigns.
We have gotten kind of used to the smell of cigarettes, a month into our travels. The only time it really bothers us is in our hotel, at night, when we are winding down or trying to sleep. If it wafts in through the window, it’s easy enough to close it, but sometimes it’s people in the next room or the hallway and the smell carries, and there’s not much you can do about it.
As a former smoker, there are [rare] times in the states when I smell cigarette smoke and think it smells good and longingly remember how much I enjoyed smoking (usually after having a drink or two or when I am really full). In China, we have been inundated with the smell, so I have not had that same sentiment. The coughing and hacking doesn’t hurt to reaffirm that smoking is gross and bad for you.
Almost all of our hotel rooms come with ashtrays in them. When they don’t, they post everywhere not to smoke (and lots of signs not to smoke in bed), and even then, sometimes people do. Luckily, they do a good job de-stankifying the hotel room itself because none of our hotel rooms have had a lingering smoke smell.
Phil and I have decided that the reason it’s older men who do the most coughing, is because they have been smoking the longest. While we have seen a few women smoking, it is like 85% men. Exposure to environmental pollutants doesn’t help. China is one of the top 20 countries with the highest amount of air pollution, accounting for 2 million deaths a year. I think the air pollution also contributed to the headaches that Phil and I were getting during our first couple of weeks in China.
Men also spit, a lot. It’s not a quick, simple spit either. It’s a full on hocking a loogie, loudly. I have heard women do this on occasion, in the privacy of their restroom stall, which seems the best place to do it, in my opinion.
Phil and I have noticed that sometimes the coughing, throat clearing, and loogie hocking seem to be done for attention. I have no psychological research to back this up, but often when we pass by, or someone (95% men) takes notice of us…that is when a cough, clearing, or hock is the loudest and most exaggerated. Almost like they’re saying, “notice me!” I could be wrong, but it has happened too many times not to think that it is a possibility.
It’s important to mention that the smoking, coughing, etc, may sound gross or too much, dear reader, to handle were you to travel through China, one does get used to it. Phil and I still look at each other when someone coughs very near to us, or Phil says, “get it out buddy” when someone is really working up a hock, but it doesn’t impact our day. Plus, I think about our American customs that would seem gross to Chinese traveling to the United States, for example: wearing outdoor shoes inside (I know some folks don’t do this, but a lot do), or eating food with our hands (I talk more about this here).
You don’t see a lot of facial hair on men in China, almost none. When Phil had a hair cut recently, he told the man cutting his hair that he wanted to keep his sideburns, but to trim them up. When the man (via translator) confirmed this request, the English translation of the word for sideburns in Mandarin was “disease catchers”. “Cut hair but leave the disease catchers”, he confirmed. Maybe we don’t see a lot of facial hair because they are considered germ-y or “full of disease”? Either way, the guy on the right below was super stoked to cut Phil’s hair and asked if we could take a photo. The guy on the left was his helper/shampooer.
Cultural norms are different among different cultures. It’s part of the travel experience and the learning about different places. Not all customs or aspects of a culture will resonate with or appeal to you and that’s ok. It is still fun to explore and learn.
Next up: You’re going to get some stares
Jess Barrington Travels 